Neotantric Fragrances - (I am) a Sex Goddess

OK let's be clear. I am clearly not a Sex Goddess. That much is obvious. 

However, I do love this fragrance from Neotantric Fragrances.

Neotantric is a Swedish brand and each fragrance has been composed in Grasse and created by a different parfumier, whose ‘noses’ have created parfum’s for many well known global brands - along a similar vein to Frederic Malle albeit with a quirky edge.

This particular one is created by Christian Vermorel and comes in a 100ml EDT - which means I tend to spray it on my clothing to make it last longer. There are no descriptions on the bottles - you're supposed to just blind smell and pick the one you are attracted to. 

Once I saw the breakdown though it was blatantly obvious why I love it:

It's pretty much one of my favourites at each layer - fresh, then floral, then slightly deeper with warmth. Pretty perfect for those days when you can't decide what to wear - be it clothing or fragrance. Gives you a lovely whisper of a beautiful smell that doesn't overpower your mood, clothing or attitude.

I love it. I'm still not a Sex Goddess though.

More info on Neotantric Fragrances can be found here and it can be purchased at Beauty Works West - prices from £65.00

*pr sample, no affiliates

Zelens Giveaway Winners

My apologies for the delay in getting this done! I've now had the list of winners from the Zelens office and they are:

Penny Alwyn 

Maginda Gomes

Aoife

Browneyes35 

Alison Hodges

Congratulations all!

You have until Monday to claim your prize. Please email info@carolinehirons.com with your full posting address.

Thanks to everyone who entered. And don't worry if you didn't win this time - there are plenty more Giveaways to come.

Beauty Trends Conference - September 2013

Just a quick one for industry bods. I'm speaking at the Beauty Trends and Innovation Conference this September. It looks like being a really good day if you fancy joining us?

Beauty Trends and Innovations Conference 

Thank you Pixiwoo.

So its been a couple of weeks since I did the video with Sam and Nic for BodyTalk Daily.

I was then unexpectedly mentioned in this Summer Makeup Favourites video from the girls at the weekend.

I wanted to do this catch-up post to say two things:

1. Sam and Nic rock. The better side of the industry personified - talented, sweet, so very generous and the ultimate professionals.

2. The effect of being mentioned by Pixiwoo on 2 occasions has sent this blog stratospheric - I am only mentioning this for one reason: I have been inundated with requests for help. 

People are emailing/tweeting/finding me on instagram - I am being asked for skin advice in the Post Office and spotted in the loo. (Can you imagine what its like to actually BE Sam and Nic? - I'm exhausted on their behalf thinking about it.)

With the best will in the world there is just no way I can reply to everyone - if you catch me online and I'm around I will always answer if I can - but please don't think I'm rude if I don't reply to you - it's not for lack of wanting.

Thank you Sam and Nic. You rock.

Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm - a rant and a review.

Let me say this about this cleanser. It comes with a flannel. Yes. A flannel (washcloth for my confused US readers). Amen, praise the maker - praise whomever you choose - I cannot deal with anymore muslin cloths. Sod off with the muslin cloths. One brand says they are better at cleaning the skin and everyoneelseinthehistoryoftheworld follows. I'm looking at you Eve Lom. And don't come at me with Cleanse & Polish. Eve Lom did it first. (Not that it's her fault that everyone and their brother copied her - that's a compliment - of sorts.)

I digress.

Here's the other thing about this cleanser. I can't decide. I can't decide if I like it or hate it - If I like or hate the smell, like or hate the texture - like or hate the results. I've had this for a while - before it launched - I haven't blogged it because I just can't decide - so I'm sticking with facts and a round-up at the end. I hope you don't end up as confused as me.

What's in it?

Well it doesn't contain collagen - as I was asked recently. In fact, you'd be hard pushed to find the ingredients anywhere if you weren't standing in front of the box as neither Elemis, nor any of their online retailers PRINT THE INGREDIENTS. I've ranted about this before so I won't bore you with it again - but seriously - it's borderline arrogance to me that brands don't a: list the full ingredient list on their sites and b: insist that their other stockists do the same. 

How do you expect your customers to make an informed decision about purchasing a product if they do not know what is in it? And not just the ingredients you want to 'push' - all of them.

So here, in all their iPhone glory are the ingredients:

Now why couldn't Elemis have provided that? There's nothing to apologise for in that list - in fact Elemis make a big deal of saying what they don't contain - parabens, mineral oils etc - so why not say it loud and proud? 

On your website?

What's good about it?

Mineral oil free, paraben and SLS free - good almond oil base. Gives a good massage medium for second cleanse - or only cleanse if you aren't wearing a lot of eye makeup. The flannel! Today I like the smell.

What's bad about it?

It contains shea butter so I would avoid if you are prone to breakouts/acne. Hardens slightly in colder temperatures so can drag slightly on the skin if not warmed in hands before (which I don't like doing) - as this is aimed at a 'mature' skin - not ideal. 

If you keep your cleanser in your bathroom you should be ok though. Not great for eye makeup removal - leaves traces of mascara and a film on the skin. I have to pre-cleanse with Una Brennan's oil if I'm wearing makeup and give an extra wipe with the flannel to make sure it's all off before I tone.

Verdict:

The Pro-Collagen range is to Elemis what Lime, Basil and Mandarin is to Jo Malone or Touche Eclat is to YSL in that it is their 'pension fund' range.

Pro-Collagen Marine Cream was such a huge runaway success for Elemis that it was only a matter of time before they extended the line. Elemis fans will no doubt LOVE this and say that I am insane. And that's great - if it ain't broke, don't fix it on my account.

All that being said, I'm just not overwhelmed with enthusiasm. 

It's good, it's not great. 

To give more context, it's easily better than Eve Lom, but it wouldn't stop me buying Emma Hardie. 

I happily use it, but I wouldn't buy it as a first preference given the choice.

I have 3 of them - and I won't be giving any of them away - I'll keep them and use them all (I KNOW).

I'm just confused. Sorry Elemis. 

Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm is available on TimeToSpa.co.uk and is £39.50.

Please do let me know if you have had great results with this - I love Elemis as a rule and want to play fair.

*PR sample

Decleor Aroma Sun Expert SPF 50 and 30 Protective Anti-wrinkle Creams

Next up is Decleor - which is hands-down my favourite suncare packaging - they nailed it with the pinky/red. It's pretty perfect - and so easy to spot in your bag when you're wearing dark shades!

Available in three strengths:

SPF15

SPF30

SPF50

One size:

50ml

'UVA' symbol on pack:

Yes

Water resistant?:

Resistant - Yes

Waterproof - No

Perspiration resistant?:

Yes

Rub resistant?:

Not stated.

Texture:

Feels like a normal moisturiser - takes slightly longer to absorb than some - not that that's a bad thing.

Fragrance:

SPF mixed with fresh floral - very nice.

Suitability for darker skins:

I tested the 30 and the 50. Absorbs very well with little trace. SPF creams really have come a long way since the days of making us all look milk-bottle white.

What else?:

Contains a DNA Protection Complex and Sol-Collagenine anti-ageing complex in addition to the SPF. More skin 'care' for your dolla.

Verdict:

Gorgeous suncare range that sits much more on the 'skincare' side due to higher price point. This is £28.00 for 50ml. Buy it when it's on GWP!

Available on Decleor.co.uk (which currently has a GWP)

*PR samples

Clarins SPF 50+ and SPF30 Sun Wrinkle Control Cream

Available in three strengths:

SPF15

SPF30

SPF50+

There is a wider selection available - I'm just focusing primarily on the face.

One size:

75ml (nice big fat size)

'UVA' symbol on pack:

Yes

Water resistant?:

Resistant - Yes

Waterproof - No

Perspiration resistant?:

Yes

Rub resistant?:

Not stated.

Texture:

Goes on and feels like a normal face cream - absorbs well

Fragrance:

I love the smell - if you've ever used Clarins SPF before you'll know the scent. Same every year. Reminds me of the SUN!

Suitability for darker skins:

I tested all three strengths on all but the very darkest skins. I don't think this would leave any residue or tell-tale SPF trace on any skin.

What else?:

Contains a Clarins patented Phyto-Sunactyl 2 Multi-Cellular protection complex - which in layman's terms is designed to strengthen and reinforce the skin and protect from collagen damage. 

These photos don't show the circled UVA logo mentioned on the SPF cheat sheet - but it is on the packaging of this year's products - which I have - meaning that at least a 1/3 of the UV protection is UVA.

Verdict:

I love Clarins sun products. Everyone used to rave about Lancaster (good - but not the be all and end all) but for me Clarins have always done sun well. It's hard to go wrong to be honest. 

Good sizes, good technology, good price. 

What's not to love?

Clarins is available on Clarins.co.uk and is highly recommended.

*PR samples

Pixiwoo's BodyTalk

A couple of weeks ago and I sat down with Sam and Nic from Pixiwoo to talk about skincare. I say 'talk'. I mean 'rant'.

Thank you to the girls for having me and the team for being so hospitable. Next time we should do it with wine. :)

EX1 Cosmetics Giveaway

Straight up from the get-go: EX1 are one of my clients. I wanted to work with them because instead of complaining to all and sundry when she couldn't find the correct tones for her skin - their founder, Farah, decided to make her own. As you do. My kind of woman.

The line contains 5 products - a liquid foundation, mineral powder foundation, compact powder, blusher and concealer with more in the pipeline. There has long been talk about the lack of availability of colour cosmetics for any skin other than white. Hopefully this is a small step in the right direction.

EX1 is specifically designed to work with non-white and asian skintones - something they appear to have done if feedback from customers is anything to go by. 

I've compiled a very rough list of possible shade matches - I know its ridiculously hard to get across tones online but when you have the owner on speed dial you can be pushy. :)

F100 - Kim Kardashian (without makeup!)

F200 - Eva Longoria

F300 - Shriya Saran

F400 - Freida Pinto

F500 - Jada Pinkett Smith

The other reason I'm a fan? Pricing. Farah is adamant that EX1 should be affordable for all - not just 'those that can afford it'. EX1 is essentially a high-end foundation with a mass price. The Invisiwear Liquid Foundation is £10.50. Nice work.

Anyway: being one of my clients I bullied asked Farah nicely if she wanted to offer any to the readers of this blog - and she of course said yes.

EX1 are offering 3 readers any 3 products of their choice from the range.

To enter: 'Like' the EX1 Facebook page and/or leave a comment below letting me know how to contact you - twitter or your FB/email, whatever you prefer.

T & C's:

• Three sets of 3 products are available (we can help you with colours)
• Three winners will be chosen at random by other members of the EX1 team - not me
• Giveaway closes Wednesday 8th May 2013
• No alternative product or cash alternative will be offered
• Winners will be given 48 hrs to respond - after that another winner will be chosen

EX1 is available from Look Fantastic, Beauty Expert and HQ Hair.

More information on the brand can be found on EX1 Cosmetics.com





Small print: Ex1 are my client - but I am not receiving any funding for holding this giveaway. No affiliate links.

Clinique City Block Sheer SPF25 and SPF40 Face Cream

It's all about the C word today. Those of you who know me of old will remember that is what I used to call Clinique - the 'C' word. Well, *deep breath* I apologise. 

On some counts. I still think Clarifying Lotion (except the mild one) is akin to nail varnish remover but THAT ASIDE - I've been more impressed with recent offerings. These are two of them.

City Block Sheer 25SPF is an oil-free tinted broad spectrum sunscreen designed for use alone or under makeup. Don't be put off by the tinted part - I've tried both of these on four of us in the office - the tint only highlights your skin with a glow - it's not foundation.

Available in two strengths:

SPF25

SPF40

One size:

40ml

'UVA' symbol on pack:

No

Water resistant?:

No

Perspiration resistant?:

Yes

Rub resistant?:

Not stated.

Texture:

Goes on and feels like a tinted moisturiser

Fragrance:

Smells lovely - has the SPF smell but it is not overpowering

Suitability for darker skins:

I tested the SPF25 - that was fine on very pale to darker olive skins. Not tested on black skin but there is no white residue that I think would be problematic.

What else?:

City Block is designed to do just that. Protect from grime, smog, smoke, pollution in general. 

Oil-free.

This is a mineral sunscreen - not chemical - so those of you allergic to traditional SPF should be fine.

Acts as a primer - use this instead of a BB/CC/TT (total timewaster) cream. 

Verdict:

Pretty much the perfect SPF for those of you that need/want protection on a daily basis. Not just on a beach. I like this. I will use this myself. Now someone go pick London Makeup Girl up off the floor and give her a gin.

Right. When you leave the city behind and head for the beach - you need the real deal. Clinique Sun has lots of variations and comes in a 35 stick, 30 and 40 for the face.

Available in three strengths:

SPF35 STICK

SPF30 cream

SPF40 cream

One size:

The creams are 50ml

'UVA' symbol on pack:

No - however, the leaflet states 'Formulas comply with EU recommendations for UVA/UVB protection'. I an guessing it doesn't contain the UVA 'circle' symbol to save Clinique having different packaging for different countries?

Water resistant?:

Yes.

Perspiration resistant?:

Yes - sweat resistant. Score for The Hirons. Does anyone actually 'perspire'? Like a Lady would in Downton Abbey? My entire side of the family sweat like rugby players wearing thermals and uggs near the equator. I digress.

Rub resistant?

Says 'reapply after rubbing'. 

Texture:

Really nice. Predictably thicker than the City Block but one comment from a tester was 'WOW. That is REALLY good for a 40.'

Fragrance:

Fresh SPF. 

Suitability for darker skins:

Black skins would get a glow. Healthy glow. Not Frankenstein glow.

What else?:

Fragrance free. Allergy tested. Suitable for sensitive skins. Has Clinique patented 'SolarSmart' antioxidant protection that is triggered by sun exposure for extra help. Stick with the SPF info - the jury is very much out on whether antioxidants in creams do anything to protect the skin. Internally, yes. Externally, derms will argue about it for days.

Verdict:

Another one that is coming home with me. Good, solid, SPF - the UVA symbol is missing but it does say 'UVA/UVB high protection'. And yes, I love the yellow packaging.

Clinique suncare is available at all Clinique stockists and on www.Clinique.co.uk. Prices start at £17.00.

*PR samples. But I would buy.

Shiseido Expert Sun Aging Protection SPF30

I thought I'd keep the reviews of the SPF's as user-friendly as possible - i.e. not let the brands overwhelm with the science and marketing blurb and just give the details (I think) you need.

First up is Shiseido's Expert Sun Aging Protection Cream. 

Available in two strengths:

SPF30

SPF50

Two sizes:

50ml

100ml

'UVA' symbol on pack:

Yes!

Water resistant?:

'Very'

Perspiration resistant?:

Yes

Rub resistant?:

Not stated.

Texture:

Lovely - absorbs easily leaving no 'white'residue

Fragrance:

Subtle SPF smell, smells like a hybrid of a Shiseido moisturiser and SPF - pleasant

Suitability for darker skins:

I tested the SPF30 - I think it would be fine for dark skins. 

What else?:

Sand proof. (!?)

Has patented SuperVeil UV-360 technology that ensures the coverage over every area of the skin - basically claims to reach the parts other sun creams don't reach! :)

ProfenseCEL defends against UV exposure by limiting enzyme activity.

Verdict:

A lovely cream that absorbs very quickly, leaves no 'white' residue and is EU approved ensuring at least 30% of the protection is towards UVA damage. (See SPF Cheat Sheet)

Shiseido Expert Sun Aging Protection starts from £27.50 and is available next week from House of Fraser.

SPF - Cheat Sheet

Now that the sun is here I am asked more frequently about moisturisers with SPF - and which to use, when - and how much?

I have inadvertently given the impression on this blog that I don't use SPF - absolutely my fault for not being clear.

So to put the record straight: I have olive skin and have Native American Indian in my background. I tan easily, burn rarely and worship the sun. However, my Mother (much paler than me) has suffered with melanoma quite seriously so I have my skin checked under Woods Lamps and keep an eye on my moles. And I absolutely use SPF when sunbathing - and when in hot climates for work - I just don't use daily SPF in my skincare. 

In the winter I get my SPF from my make-up - and in the summer I get SPF from a specific SPF product. I.E. a dedicated sunscreen that gives both UVA and UVB protection. UVC doesn't penetrate that atmosphere so we don't need to worry on that score. 

My problem with SPF in moisturisers is two-fold: 

1. It gives you a false sense of security.
   If you use a moisturiser containing SPF 15 (for example) at 8am in the morning - assuming you apply it all over your face (most people leave out areas of their face when moisturising) - if you would normally burn in 15 minutes of sun exposure, technically you should be reapplying your SPF at 11.45am. How are you going to do that without removing your full face of makeup? I know no-one that takes their makeup off halfway through the day to reapply sunscreen.
   If you apply your SPF moisturiser religiously every day and think you are protected - you may not be.
2. A moisturiser containing SPF invariably only protects from UVB - it does not protect you from UVA. So you won't burn, but your collagen will break down and you'll still get wrinkles. Excellent. Also - SPF moisturisers are less likely to be rub-resistant or water-resistant. So if you apply your makeup with fingers or a brush (everyone) or perspire/sweat - it's gone.

If you want proper protection from the sun you need to use a broad spectrum sun protectant cream - a dedicated product that's sole purpose is to protect your skin from the damage the sun does to it. 

Honestly? Companies that add SPF to their general 'anti-ageing' moisturisers are throwing it in there as an 'added benefit' and a sales tool. Sun protection is not an 'added benefit'. It's a critical, proven step to protect from ageing.

The EU is on to this and making sweeping changes from this July. The symbol above can only be shown on packaging of a product that has proven to provide at least a third of its protection against UVA. Not just UVB.

In terms of routine?

• cleanse
• tone
• serum (if you use)
• moisturiser (non-spf!)
• SPF product
• makeup

The EU has also reclassified sun protection ratings:

• Low = 6-14 (God knows what they would call my old preferred SPF 4 oil of the 80's)
• Medium = 15-29
• High = 30-50
• Very high = 50+

If you are fair, white, 'pale' - you should be in the 'High' category. 

If you are any type of ethnicity that tans easily and rarely burns you can use low-medium as long as you use it wisely. 

If you are a redhead however you are strictly in the 'Very high' category. Redheads with freckles have phaeomelanin - opposed to the rest of us that have eumelanin. You'll burn easily, quickly and the damage will be long-lasting. 

If you use an SPF in the low-medium category you will still tan. 

If you don't want any colour at all you need to use 30 and above and reapply frequently.

N.B. - SPF degrades. Buy new each year. 

When I use Woods Lamps or similar technology on clients the main areas that nearly always show damage are the tops of the ears (ALWAYS the top of the ears), the back of the neck and the tip of the nose. Forewarned is forearmed.

Enjoy the sun. I LOVE the sun. Just protect yourself.

Sue Devitt is no more

I don't know how it passed me by but I found out today that Sue Devitt folded in February. Such a shame. Especially after Jemma Kidd also went under recently. If the small guys (girls) go - we're only left with the corporate big guns - and I don't know about you but that thought terrifies me.

There appears to still be Sue Devitt stock in the UK if you are a fan. But I'd get moving if I were you.

Let's hope she comes back bigger and better.

Georgia Louise launching in SpaceNK

Launching this June in SpaceNK is the Georgia Louise skincare range. Initially opening with 4 products - Georgia Louise is a British -born facialist now based in New York and counts Emma Stone and Linda Evangelista as clients.

The four products are Sleeping Beauty Oil, Day & Night Brightening Cream, Hydrating Rose Water and the Cleanse & Heal Duo Balm - which is predictably what I zoned in on.

This is a make-no-apologies oil based balm cleanser. Although it says that you can add a few pumps of the rosewater, for me, there is no emulsifying here - you won't get this off without a hot, wet, flannel - which suits me fine. (If I wanted something to emulsify I'd use a cleansing milk?)

It contains coconut butter, Mango butter, beeswax, castor oil, apricot kernel oil, passion fruit oil, meadow-foam seed oil, papaya oil, vitamin e oil, lavender, ylang-ylang and chamomile. And that's it. it is also 89% organic but that is neither here nor there for me as regular readers will know. 

It says suitable for all skin types - and I'm sure it pretty much is - however, I do think an acne skin could get into trouble if they didn't remove every last trace of it - properly. 

For the rest of us it's a glorious uplifting balm cleanser that gives you a good grip to really get a good massage going. You can usually rely on facialist brands more than any other to 'give good balm'. They base their products around their needs in the treatment room. You can't massage owt with a weak-assed milk. 

GL is clearly good with her hands - until recently she was making all of her products herself. 

Georgia Louise launches in SpaceNK at the beginning of June. Stores and prices to be confirmed. In the meantime, further reading on GL and her work can be found on GeorgiaLouise.co.uk

Aveda skincare - it's not all about the hair you know!

My recent stint in Liberty reminded me of how much I used to love Aveda skincare and what a gem it is.. The counter is opposite the Queen Mary room (fancy!) and I headed there for at least one item after nearly every consultation. Usually the original line..

The exfoliant is another alternative to the P50, Pixi Glow Tonic and Clarins Exfoliating Toner.

 The hydrating lotion does exactly what it says on the bottle. Light, non-clogging action.

The cream cleanser doesn't dry out the face..

And the spray toners are amazing. 

Here's the thing: It's kind of hard to go wrong with Aveda for good, basic, affordable skincare. I haven't delved too much into the other lines - I'm fond of this original line - I'm not one for faff and this does the job.

Here's the best thing: the pricing and the sizes. All of the products shown in Aveda's 'botanical kinetics' line start at £17.00 for 150ml.

Them's crazy prices. I forgot about you Aveda skincare. I'm sorry. Remedied. Go try it. 

Available at all Aveda stockists and online at www.aveda.co.uk 

*Purchases - no affiliates.